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The Museo Correr looks straight down St Mark's Square from the far end, in the wing that Napoleon's rule added to close off the piazza. It carries the name of Teodoro Correr, a Venetian nobleman who left his palace full of art and documents to the city in 1830, and it has grown into the museum of Venice's own history.

Alongside maps, coins, ships' models and the regalia of the old republic hang paintings that tell the city's story in its own hand: Giovanni Bellini and Vittore Carpaccio, and in the cooler neoclassical rooms the marble and plaster of Antonio Canova, a son of the Venetian mainland.

The setting is part of the point. The route passes through grand imperial apartments once used by Austrian and Italian royalty, and the windows hand you the square from above.

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