Galleria Doria Pamphilj

This is one of the last great Roman collections still owned by the family that made it. The Doria Pamphilj palace sits on the Via del Corso, and its picture galleries, hung in the old crowded manner four rows high, belong to descendants of the family that gave Rome a pope, Innocent X, in 1644.

At the far end of the palace, in a small room of its own, is the reason art lovers come: Velázquez's portrait of that pope, painted in 1650, a red-robed, hard-eyed old man so alive that Innocent himself is said to have muttered it was too true. Beside it stands Bernini's marble bust of the same face.

The rest is Roman collecting at full strength, with Caravaggio's Rest on the Flight into Egypt and his Penitent Magdalene, a Titian and a Raphael, in a palace where the family still keeps apartments upstairs.